Poaching Fruit: a Simple, Delicious Transformation

Quince, Rhubarb and Pear

Poaching fruit is one of the most simple, yet wonderfully transformative ways to enjoy a piece of fruit. It can take something that is too tart (such as rhubarb) too hard (such as quince) or too bland (such as a bad crop of pears) and turn them into a delicious and versatile refrigerator staple. It is a fantastic way to deal with a glut of most fruit, much of which can be canned or frozen after poaching, and will keep well in the fridge for at least a week, to be used at anytime you need a little fruity pick-me-up.

Poached fruit is as wonderful for breakfast with some thick, natural yogurt and a sprinkle of granola as it is for dessert alongside ice cream, custard or panna cotta. You can bake it into a cake or muffin, or use on top of some rough puff pastry with or without a lick of frangipane on the bottom.

For the recipes here, I have used a simple syrup, a mixture of water and sugar, which is good if you need to cook the fruit for a while in order for it to become soft, but if you have stone fruit that are very ripe, it is wonderful to ‘poach’ them simply in their own juices. Simply cut and place in a shallow pan, sprinkle with enough sugar to lift the flavour (up to half a cup for 4 or 5 peaches, for example), add a good squeeze of lemon juice, then place a tight fitting lid over the pan and cook gently until the fruit releases it’s juice and softens without loosing its structure completely (about 10-15 minutes). The juices or syrup of poached fruit make the best base for a homemade soda, simply pour a few tablespoons into the bottom of a glass and top with sparkling water- my favourite syrup for soda is rhubarb, I look forward to rhubarb sodas all year long.

I have kept the flavourings quite simple in these recipes, my philosophy with cooking is generally that I want to bring out the natural flavour of what I am cooking, so less is more, but it can be fun to experiment with variations, such as herbs and spices. Lemon Verbena is wonderful with peaches, warming spices such as cinnamon, cardamom and cloves are very nice with autumn fruits like quince, pears and apples. Rosemary, thyme and even dried chilies are unusual but delicious additions to pears, peaches or nectarines, just remember that a little goes a long way. Vanilla, bean or extract, is a friend to all fruit, but especially pears, apricots, rhubarb and peaches. Like most things I cook, I always add lemon to my poached fruit, it brightens the flavour and makes the fruit taste even more like itself.

Poached Quince

Quinces are one of those ‘old fashioned’ fruits that many people don’t know what to do with. Indeed, they can be quite a commitment, taking many hours of slow gentle cooking to achieve the desired ruby red colour they are known for. Your patience will be rewarded though, as nothing compares to the unique floral flavour of quince that is as at home alongside a chunk of Manchego or Stilton as a delicate panna cotta or atop a tarte tatin.

You do not need to peel the quinces, I only do it if the fruit is not organic or if they are quite blemished. If you do not peel them, be sure to wash them well.

4 quinces, peeled (optional) and quartered, keep the core of 2 quinces-separated- for pectin.

2 heaped cups sugar

10 cups water

Zest and juice of 2 lemons

• place the water and sugar in a pot large enough to hold the quinces comfortably, and bring to a boil. Add the quinces and the cores and boil for about 40 minutes before turning down to a very low simmer. Cook very gently for 4-5 hours, turning the quinces very gently halfway through the cooking time so that they colour evenly on both sides. Keep an eye on the water level, you will likely need to add a bit more water or you will end up with toffee or a very burnt pan. When the quinces are done they will be a deep pinky red and the syrup will be thick and pectin-y.

This recipe can easily be halved or doubled depending on your needs.

Variations: add any of the following spices as you desire: a cinnamon stick, a couple of cloves, star anise, cardamom pod

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Poached Rhubarb