My Ultimate Chocolate Tart
(Served with poached prunes if you are so inclined)
A really good chocolate tart is perfect thing. A crisp shell holding a smooth, rich, velvety filling. Nothing more is needed, though I would never say no to a little poached prune or a dollop of thick cream on the side.
It sounds silly but I searched for years for my ideal chocolate tart. I am not satisfied with a pure ganache filling, it is too rich and the texture looses its pleasure after a few bites. I tried tarts that were too cake-y or too complicated- with layers of caramel or ‘stuff’ to make them seem clever. But the secret to anything really good, is finding that perfect balance of just enough and having the confidence to leave it alone.
The beauty of a tart is that it is not a cake. That may seem obvious, but you have to take advantage of the shell that holds it together. The contrast of the exterior and the interior is what makes a tart special. And so, they both must be worthy in their own right, of complimenting the other. This is not so difficult to achieve. To me, the most important thing a about a tart shell in most cases is that it is properly cooked. Deep golden brown is what I look for, I like to smell the butter caramelising before I add the filling. This ensures the shell has ample character and structure to support the filling. The filling on the other hand, in this case at least, is cooked until just barely set, ensuring that it remains velvety, like a lovely chocolate custard that just holds its shape when sliced. I therefore encourage a certain amount of hovering around the oven, at the least the first time you make this tart, to ensure it does not overcook, given that every oven has its own idea of how long things take to cook.
I am giving a recipe for poached prunes, which I have discovered, many people have a funny relationship with. I love them, especially when paired with chocolate or almonds or some lovely thick creamy dessert. Therefore, if you have leftovers, consider baking them into a brownie, flourless chocolate cake or frangipane tart, eating with your yoghurt and granola for breakfast or having alongside a bowl of vanilla ice cream or panna cotta.
Chocolate Tart
1 pre-baked sweet tart case, baked to deep golden brown (see recipe below)
225g good quality dark chocolate
3 whole eggs
1 egg yolk
150 g sugar
1 tsp vanilla extract
450ml whipping cream
30ml (2 Tbls) espresso or strong coffee
cocoa powder for dusting
Preheat the oven to 300F/150C
Melt the chocolate over a double boiler. Stir it only once or twice and turn off the heat before it has completely finished melting (to ensure it does not become grainy).
In a separate pan, bring the cream, espresso and vanilla extract to just below a boil.
In a bowl, beat the eggs, yolk and sugar to a thick sabayon consistency- meaning it is thick and pale and will lightly hold a trail when you lift up the whisk- about 3-4 minutes by hand.
Gently pour the cream into the egg mixture and then fold through the chocolate.
Pour the filling carefully into the pre-baked shell (keep the shell in the tart tin)- I sometimes find it easier to to this with the shell already in the oven to avoid spilling the filling over the sides.
Bake for 20-40 minutes until just set- there will still be a faint wobble but it will appear fully set, not liquid at all. This is a big window, so it’s best to check at 20 minutes and assess and then check as needed after that. If your oven is still a little warm from baking the tart shell, as mine was recently, then it will take closer to 20 minutes, otherwise a longer time is safer to assume.
Remove the tart from the oven and cool to room temperate. Dust with cocoa powder by sieving it over the top of the tart, to serve. Best served at room temperature within a few hours of baking.
Sweet Shortcrust Pastry
I love to use whole-wheat flour or spelt, or even a little rye (up to 75g) when I make my sweet shortcrust pastry. It gives it more character and is especially good with the chocolate filling.
I usually make my pastry in a food processor. It takes a fraction of the time and always works, though I have given the method to make by hand here also.
140g unsalted butter (room temp if making by hand or cold if using food processor)
100g ap flour (plain flour)
150g wholewheat flour (or sub spelt flour or ap flour)
100g icing sugar
pinch salt
1 large egg, lightly beaten
To make in the food processor: place the dry ingredients in bowl of the food processor and pulse to combine. Add the butter, cut into smallish pieces, and pulse until mix resembles fine bread crumbs. Add the egg and pulse until it begins to come together (just a few pulses, don't over-do it). Tip out onto the workbench and bring dough together. I like to give it a couple of quick kneads to be sure it isn’t going to crumble when I roll it out. Shape into a flat disc and wrap in plastic for at least half an hour and up to 2 days.
To make by hand: place the flour in a bowl. Cut the butter into small pieces and then use your fingertips to rub the butter into the flour until it looks like fine breadcrumbs. Add the salt and powdered sugar and combine, then add the beaten egg and mix gently to combine. Bring together and give a couple of quick kneads to be sure it isn’t going to crumble when rolled out. Shape into a flat disc and wrap in plastic for at least half an hour and up to 2 days.
To roll: grease an 11 or 12 inch tart tin (28-30cm) with a removable base with a little butter. Remove the dough from the fridge and allow to soften a little before rolling- 15 mins or so if it hasn’t been in for too long or up to an hour if it has been in overnight. Using as little flour as possible, lightly dust your work surface. Roll the pastry out by rolling away from your body and then rotating the dough, rolling and rotating until you have a large flat round a bit larger than the tart tin. Roll the dough over the rolling pin and lift it up, unrolling as you place it in the tart tin. Gently press into the corners of the tart tin, being careful not to tear the pastry. If any holes appear, patch them up. Trim the pastry using a Sharpe knife or pair of kitchen scissors, leaving about a 1/4 inch (1/2 cm) overhang. Place back in the fridge for at least an hour.
To Bake: Preheat the oven to 350F/180C. Place a piece of baking paper inside the tart shell and fill with dried beans or rice, going up the edges to support the pastry so it doesn’t slump. Bake for 20 minutes until pastry is no longer transparent-looking and then remove the paper and weights and continue baking for a further 5-10 minutes or until the pastry is deep golden brown. Remove from the oven and allow to cool before filling.
Poached prunes
Prunes and chocolate are a combination I can’t go past, especially when the prunes are poached in a slightly boozy tea syrup that is just sweet enough.
I realize prunes are not everybody’s cup of tea, but they are mine and I love the smell of them cooking, especially in the winter.
Any left-over prunes make an excellent addition to yoghurt for breakfast and they are also excellent on the side of a panna cotta or baked into a frangipane tart.
8oz (about 225g) pitted prunes- about 25-30 prunes
2 or so cups of water
1 black tea bag
1/4 cup or so of sugar- turbinado or Demerara is nice if you have it
A heavy splash of Marsala or brandy, or another liquor of your choosing (optional but good)
Optional: a strip of orange peel, a cinnamon stick
In a smallish pot bring the water, sugar, tea bag, booze and orange or cinnamon of using to a gentle simmer. Stir to melt the sugar and then add the prunes. Poach over gentle heat, removing the tea bag after 5 minutes or so, until the prunes are plump and juicy but not falling apart, about 15 minutes or so. Leave to cool in the liquid, and store in the liquid in the fridge for up to a week.
