How to Make a Little Fish Go a Long Way

Tuna fish cakes, an alternative to tartare sauce, and a really good salad

A week in the Southern Hemisphere has given me my fill of warm weather, verdant scenery and good food. I ate my way around Sydney feasting on curries, noodles, gelato and fish. I am making it my mission to enjoy as much local seafood as possible. A favourite dish of fish and beans, a combination I crave surprisingly often, was so good it had to be eaten twice: creamy white butter beans and braised greens under a side of steamed red snapper with a piece of melting chilli butter on top: simple, fresh and very good. 

Back in the kitchen, at my parents house, I found myself again cooking fish, this time using an ever-useful can of tuna, to make fish cakes, or fish patties. I served them with a slightly unusual dipping sauce that had a base of yoghurt, flavoured with garlic, dill and a pinch of cinnamon, that also doubled perfectly as a salad dressing for the green bean, beet, avocado and plum salad that was served alongside the fish cakes. 

Fish cakes are a wonderful kitchen staple. They are endlessly versatile once you understand some basics and can be a great way to use up odd leftovers such as boiled potatoes, roasted fennel, grated carrot or zucchini or breadcrumbs. A small amount of cooked fish can be stretched to make a meal for the family with the addition of some filler and herbs. Parsley, dill, chives, tarragon and cilantro are great herbs to use in fish cakes (tarragon is especially good if you are using salmon) and you can also add a small amount of spices such as cumin, coriander, fennel seeds or even a pinch juniper- just don’t use too much and keep flavour combinations simple or you will overpower the delicate flavour of the fish. I usually serve them with a creamy sauce such as tartare or lemony creme fraiche and a salad, usually one that contains plenty of freshly sliced red onion, dill and capers. 

When going rogue on a recipe for fish cakes, the main basic tenets are simple: the mixture can't be too wet and you need enough of a base filler to hold everything together. A non-stick pan also helps to keep it together when cooking. If you use fresh vegetables such as zucchini, cabbage or grated carrot, a small sprinkle of salt and a 20 minute rest before squeezing the life out of them should get rid of a sufficient amount of their liquid. If using these you will also want to add an egg and some flour or breadcrumbs to bind them together. I always add a tablespoon or so of flour, chickpea flour works especially well if you are looking for a gluten free option, it acts like a little sponge drying and binding the mix just enough to help it hold.